30 March 2009
Visiting the smoke that thunders and a different economic reality
In late February I was told that I had won a prize of 3 nights in Victoria Falls. Fully expecting a scam, I did not believe this until the time my flight was in the air, going along with things simply because I have always wanted to see the Falls, and this seemed like a chance to do that. It was anyway the stuff of jokes; first prize a weekend at Vic Falls; second prize two weeks at Vic Falls; as at the moment, far from being a tourist paradise, Zimbabwe is a PR nightmare: in the news because of human rights abuses, economic collapse and cholera.
First sight of the "smoke" - the spray from the Falls
View from the bar of Gorges Lodge of the Batoka GorgeWe stayed at Gorges Lodge, situated some 22 km from the Falls. Part of Zimbabwe's Campfire project (a portion of its revenue goes to benefit local communities) the lodge is set on the edge of a gorge 250m above the Zambezi river, in indigenous gardens, and has all the space and tranquility you could ever wish for. Both the dining room and bar overlook the gorge and it was hard to leave behind the spectacular views that accompanied our beautifully presented and prepared meals. The resilience and resourceful of Zimbabweans was apparent everywhere. Money, the actual physical stuff, is in short supply. Zimbabwe dollars are useless now as currency, and are sold or swopped by locals as souvenirs. Only South African rands and American dollars are now accepted; credit cards are useless too as credit card companies no longer operate in the country, and no atms were working. The cash we had when we entered the country was what we had for our stay; and it was at first disconcerting, then liberating to leave behind the familiar props of cash and credit cards.
The Falls themselves are spectacular. Known in Tonga as "Mosi-oa-Tunya" (the smoke that thunders); they are 1708 metres wide and 108 metres high, and form the largest sheet of falling water in the world. The Zambezi riverwas very full when we were there, and spray from the falls made it impossible to stay dry on the walk to view them; but getting soaked was part of what made the experience a memorable one.
The Falls themselves are spectacular. Known in Tonga as "Mosi-oa-Tunya" (the smoke that thunders); they are 1708 metres wide and 108 metres high, and form the largest sheet of falling water in the world. The Zambezi riverwas very full when we were there, and spray from the falls made it impossible to stay dry on the walk to view them; but getting soaked was part of what made the experience a memorable one.
The Devil's Cataract
Main FallsCruises operate on the Zambezi above the falls, and it was humbling to float on one of Africa's largest rivers at sunset in the company of crocodiles and hippos with the spray from the falls rising in the distance.
Change is given in a mixture of dollars and rands, but T-shirts and shoes are also readily accepted as currency by artists and street vendors, and are needed as much a foreign currency; so take some extra clothing if you plan to visit.
Artists' Market in Victoria FallsPrices are in US dollars: a coke costs R40 and a toasted cheese R300; so you do need to do your sums to make sure the cash you have sees you through; not cheap for South Africans. But you can't beat this for a unique travel experience: you might well be the only people staying in your hotel; you can wander through an empty casino with deserted slots and dusty atms and talk to people who have come through turmoil and hardship with smiles on their faces; while down the road one of the world's most breathtaking sights continues to smoke and thunder.
Labels: Smoke that thunders, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
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