Living in SA
13 October 2008
In the past month, I've come into contact with two heritage sites which have been created in post-Apartheid South Africa. First, I attended a talk at Pretoria University on Maropeng, which was constructed as a gateway to the Cradle of Humankind and Sterkfontein caves (a world heritage site). I visited Maropeng shortly after it opened (December 2005), but until this month, have never visited Freedom Park. I fixed this a couple of weeks ago when I spent an enjoyable morning exploring this new bit of South African heritage (opened late 2007 for the first time) with two friends, one from Germany and one from Ghana.
We so desperately need places that celebrate the rich diversity and complexity of South Africa's past and culture. Although Pretoria has many museums and historic buildings, most of them are linked to a particular culture or person, and visitors to them are passive spectators. Both Maropeng and Freedom Park move away from this, and make visits into something more of an interactive experience (see next two posts) which for me brought up all sorts of questions about heritage and the links between past and future.
Maropeng
With both sites the interaction between the natural landscape and the constructions on it are striking and aesthetically pleasing; the interaction in itself making a subtle statement. At Maropeng you become very aware that you are part of an ancient landscape; and the juxtaposition of the swirling organic design of Freedom Park with the rigid lines of the Voortrekker Monument are a striking contrast of which you are aware throughout your visit.
Freedom Park
I could not help feeling a slight sense of disappointment at both sites though that there was something lacking, but that is possibly just my repeated exposure to a more traditional museum experiences; at Maropeng I wanted to see the actual Mrs Ples (or something similar) and at Freedom Park visit a real, rather than symbolic grave. Freedom Park is not yet complete, it is a work in progress, and my feeling of hollowness may disappear once the museum planned for the premises is finished, and once its amphitheatre is used regularly for gatherings; my only visit to Maropeng was also before the boutique hotel there was finished. Part of the attraction of both sites is that not only are they are heritage sites, both are also public venues; and as such need to be visited when they are fully functional. More detail on each site in the next 2 posts.
We so desperately need places that celebrate the rich diversity and complexity of South Africa's past and culture. Although Pretoria has many museums and historic buildings, most of them are linked to a particular culture or person, and visitors to them are passive spectators. Both Maropeng and Freedom Park move away from this, and make visits into something more of an interactive experience (see next two posts) which for me brought up all sorts of questions about heritage and the links between past and future.
Maropeng
With both sites the interaction between the natural landscape and the constructions on it are striking and aesthetically pleasing; the interaction in itself making a subtle statement. At Maropeng you become very aware that you are part of an ancient landscape; and the juxtaposition of the swirling organic design of Freedom Park with the rigid lines of the Voortrekker Monument are a striking contrast of which you are aware throughout your visit.Freedom Park
I could not help feeling a slight sense of disappointment at both sites though that there was something lacking, but that is possibly just my repeated exposure to a more traditional museum experiences; at Maropeng I wanted to see the actual Mrs Ples (or something similar) and at Freedom Park visit a real, rather than symbolic grave. Freedom Park is not yet complete, it is a work in progress, and my feeling of hollowness may disappear once the museum planned for the premises is finished, and once its amphitheatre is used regularly for gatherings; my only visit to Maropeng was also before the boutique hotel there was finished. Part of the attraction of both sites is that not only are they are heritage sites, both are also public venues; and as such need to be visited when they are fully functional. More detail on each site in the next 2 posts.Labels: Freedom Park, heritage, Maropeng, South Afric
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03 October 2008
At the beginning of September, I spent a few days in Magoebaskloof. It is a magical part of South Africa. Magoebaskloof is near Tzaneen, in the Limpopo province, about a 3 hour drive from Pretoria/Tshwane.
We stayed at Kuhestan Cottages; a beautiful retreat on an organic avocado farm. The cottages are built at the edge of the indigenous forest, and set in beautiful organic flower gardens.
View from the deck outside the shop at Kuhestan
The indigenous forest
We stayed at Kuhestan Cottages; a beautiful retreat on an organic avocado farm. The cottages are built at the edge of the indigenous forest, and set in beautiful organic flower gardens.
View from the deck outside the shop at Kuhestan
There is a small shop selling beautiful kelims and wonderful home made Persian pickles and jams; and the owners of Kuhestan, Shahrzad (who comes from Iran) and Brett Hone are warm and generous hosts.
The garden at Kuhestan
Walking in the indigenous Afro-montaine forest is a bit like walking into a fairy tale, except that here there are more birds.
The indigenous forest
The birds in this part of the world are spectacular. I have never seen Knysna Louries before, although we have many of their cousins, the Grey Louries (think they are now officially called Go Away birds) in our garden at home. Knysa Louries are special; their loud, uncouth cries echo in the forest, sounding more like animal gruntings and cacklings than anything coming from a bird's beak. Their green plumage and crests look very sedate until they take flight, and then you are treated to a flash of spectacular scarlet at the feather on the underside of their wings are revealed...breathtaking!
The Magoebaskloof trail is also within easy reach of the cottages, and besides hiking and bird watching the area offers trout fishing, scenic drives, many different eating establishments, tea plantations and more. It is well worth visiting for a relaxing break in beautiful surroundings.
The Magoebaskloof trail is also within easy reach of the cottages, and besides hiking and bird watching the area offers trout fishing, scenic drives, many different eating establishments, tea plantations and more. It is well worth visiting for a relaxing break in beautiful surroundings.
Part of the Magoebaskloof trail
Mist in the garden
Labels: indigenous forest, Kuhestan, Louries, Magoebaskloof
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